CULTIVnation

Not everyone has the budget or means to acquire these high-end sporty catwalk creations, so it is fortunate that many big name sports brands such as Adidas release designer capsule collections with much more affordable price tags. We love a good designer collaboration so, in honour of all things sporting; the rundown on the best of the designer/sports-brand pairings.

Adidas by Stella McCartney

Perhaps the best-known and much loved on-going designer collaboration is that of Stella McCartney and Adidas (soon to have its own stand-alone flagship store in London).  Since 2004 the mighty Miss Stella and Adidas have churned out a succession of collections of performance wear for women that is both functional and luxurious. These contemporary activewear collections cover a wide range of athletic arenas, from running and yoga to swimwear, tennis outfits and even surfwear, all adherent to McCartney’s signature fashion forward aesthetic.

Adidas Originals X Jeremy Scott

                                    

Also in bed with Adidas is flamboyant US designer Jeremy Scott. His partnership with the German mega brand is a much more edgy and street-inspired take on sportswear. Scott fuses a heavy dose of Americana (the Stars & Stripes is a prominent design theme), with his own outré personal take on sportswear that includes often includes stuffed toys and his now infamous wings, which have appeared on everything from track tops to sleeveless leather vests and the iconic JS Wings high-top shoes. Memorable past collections for Adidas include a “rock and roll band leader” outing inspired by the majorettes and bands that feature in sporting culture of American high schools. Scott’s colourful pop designs, beloved by Jedward and a host of celebrities, cover both menswear and womenswear.

Puma by Alexander McQueen

McQueen is another big name designing a sportswear capsule collection, this time a footwear range in conjunction with Puma. The cult British label’s rebellious punk rock ethos is applied to clothing and footwear creating a highly unique and distinct range that is both an aesthetical and commercially successful fusion of high fashion and athletics. Lux pony skin high-top trainers such as theJoust are a prime example of what to expect from this partnership.

Converse by John Varvatos

Perhaps a lesser-know name this side of the Atlantic, John Varvatos is big news Stateside, famed for his sleek rockstar-worthy clothing (a recent ad campaign for the brand featured devotees Green Day). Varvatos has been working with classic American sporting brand Converse since 2001, marking him as one of the first designers to enter into such a partnership, putting his own stylish spin on iconic sneakers such as the Jack Purcell and the Star Player Ox trainers, giving these much-loved and well-known shoes his signature edge by streamlining silhouettes and adding rock ‘n’ roll design details such as studding and zippers.

Ian Michael Turner

Article originally published on www.theupcoming.co.uk

The vibe from the crowd was electric from the start. Upon arrival, priority guests were ushered past the crowd of hundreds eagerly hoping to get in, evident testimony to the designers increasing profile. Many of those waiting were turned away due to capacity reasons, and for those lucky enough to gain entrance, a short walk through the subterranean arches revealed a pre-show drinks reception with signature cocktails and canapés, held in the Tunnel’s bar area. The anticipation was evident with all eyes on the catwalk area awaiting the call to be seated, notable faces amongst the crowd of scenesters, fashionsistas and East End boys and girls, included Boy George, Dr Christian Jessen, designer Christian Blanken, Philip Salon and nightlife luminaries Jodie Harsh, Lady Lloyd and Larry Tee. Indeed, the whole spectacle had a very New York feel to it, reminiscent of off-schedule shows I would attend back in the noughties in Manhattan and Brooklyn’s more unusual and off-the-beaten-track show spaces.

The show and collection itself was a visual feast, with the slick production and sharp continuity of the designs a sure indicator that designer Sorapol Chawaphatnakul, and creative director Daniel Lismore, are definitely, true fashion talents. The AW12 collection also showed a huge growth in direction, in just one season it seems that Sorapol has truly come of age and emerged like a butterfly from the cocoon that the SS12 collection represented.

Opening to flashing lights, gunfire, sirens and smoke, evocative of the Russian Revolution from which the the designer drew his inspiration, the collection was shown against a soundtrack of harsh yet beautiful, almost sinister, classical music (from Prince Persona & Daniel Wilson) to which the models literally shuffled down the runway. The clothes themselves were stunning, the sheer luxury of the materials and exquisite level of detail and decoration were a triumph.

Harking back to the decadence of yore, Sorapol’s AW12 collection featured fur, fur and more fur  on gowns and coats alike, brocade and Afghan coats, velvet dresses and embellishments of pearls and gold were everywhere. For me, one standout piece was a black fur and lace dress.  The model, dramatically cradling a black skull in one hand, looked stunning in this strikingly original look. Another stand-out, possibly showing the influence of Alexander McQueen’s early work with the designer, was a white and gold gown with fur wrap and ‘icicle’ detailing shooting out of the bodice to frame the model’s face, straight out of theChronicles of Narnia‘s White Witch’s closet.

Also a favourite was the deep red pony skin sheath dress, with gold bullets running from shoulder to waist, and the pearly queen military suit.

The headwear and hats Daniel Lismore created were beautiful. Original, well-crafted and in perfect harmony with the outfits, I particularly liked the gold gas-mask, the skull pieces, and the pearl-encrusted army hat.

My overall impression upon leaving the show was of a grown-up and well-thought collection that showed concept and continuity. The clothes were beautifully crafted and showed great promise for Sorapol, a rising fashion star with true talent. This is one label to watch.

My sentiment was echoed by established London fashion designer Christian Blanken, who commented that he really enjoyed the collection and saw great promise;

"Viewing the Sorapol show the other evening the comparisons are obvious but I think with great story teller designers like John Galliano out of action and with Sarah Burton taking the house of McQueen forward with possibly a slightly gentler and definitely more feminine vision that there is an important place within the fashion spectrum for the type of raconteur designer that Sorapol is evolving into.

I thought the tragic and grisly tale of Vasilia, the pre revolutionary Russian orphan girl adopted by Lenin,was well told and really engaging for a spectator like myself and I cant wait to see how he evolves as I think there is an obvious niche to be filled."

 Ian Michael Turner

Black and White Photos: Rusal Fox

Click here to see the collection.

At the height of its fame, the brand simply shuttered, but in 2007 Raynor resurrected BOY London in London’s East End at his SICK boutique. The classic designs, alongside new ones developed in collaboration with cutting-edge designers, have once again been adopted by the youth underground and the London gay scene in particular. BOY London has been well and truly on many of our fashion radars for some time now, however it has –or at least had – maintained a certain underground association.

That all began to change with the adoption of the label by hip, high street streetwear purveyor Urban Outfitters last year and now, with much fanfare, BOY London has launched in super department store Selfridges.

Perhaps the ultimate scoop for the label, proving her own star power and the power of celebrity endorsement in one, was Rihanna’s recent UK television appearance on The Jonathan Ross Show. This singer was decked out from head-to-toe in BOY. One of the biggest and most well-known recording artists in the world right now, Rihanna’s stepping out in BOY London has well and truly catapulted the label into mainstream attention, with Selfridges reporting a 45 per cent jump in sales since the interview aired. (A recent visit to Selfridges did indeed seem to prove this with the BOY London section looking particularly sparse).

For Raynor and his iconic brand however, it remains to be seen as to whether this is a good or bad thing. Will history repeat itself, or can BOY London stand the test of time?

Ian Turner

Visit BOY London by clicking here

Recent article of mine on www.theupcoming.co.uk